05 noviembre 2006

DE ACEQUIAS A LANJARÓN




















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Como el otoño se nos había colado como de puntillas entre el calor y la lluvia, allá que decidimos atraparlo en su primer abrazo en uno de sus parajes de más esplendor y colorido. Así que, sin pensárnoslo dos veces, nos decantamos por esta bonita marcha que partiendo del pueblo de Acequias nos lleva hasta el de Lanjarón. Primero, para alargar un poco la caminata y segundo para atravesar el corazón del Castañar de Lanjarón por ser uno de los más extensos bosques de castaños de toda la vertiente sur del macizo de Sierra Nevada y que configura la literaria Alpujarra granadina.
Para ello tomamos la "semi-autovía-carretera" de Granada a Motril, desviándonos por la salida marcada como “Nigüelas-Acequias”.
Continuamos por la carretera antigua de Motril y en donde se sitúa el desvío y la subida a este último pueblo, dejamos aparcado el vehículo; concretamente en una zona de ensanche, a la margen derecha de la carretera, y que está habilitada para el aparcamiento, una vez pasado el puente sobre el río Torrente.
Desde aquí, sobre las 09:57 h. comenzamos lo bueno, la marcha a pie, como la primera estrofa del poema del senderismo manda; y ahora, y porque no quedaba otra, por esta carretera asfaltada hasta la tranquila población de Acequias, a un kilómetro de distancia desde donde dejamos el vehículo estacionado.
Pasamos la Plaza de la Iglesia y llegamos a un pequeño parque ajardinado con una pérgola y una refrescante fuente. A la derecha parte el carril señalizado de senderismo, pero nosotros, para ahorrar en distancia, continuamos ascendiendo con dirección norte para pasar junto a las tapias de piedra de una finca de almendros y que nos sirven de referencia para tomar ya una vereda y que, tras cruzar una acequia, nos deja en otra más estrecha. Tras atravesar un pequeño y espeso pinar, continuamos por un sendero con unas vistas fabulosas, a nuestra izquierda, sobre el hermoso pueblo de Nigüelas practicamente asentado sobre el tajo que deja el río Torrente a la derecha de su curso, y que te encarrila directamente sobre la GR-7 (dentro de la E-4 europea).
Pero despacio, que la vereda es cuesta arriba y en zig-zag no se vuela. Así que, tras echar un paso tras del otro y de respirar un mucho de este cielo casi marino (no nos olvidemos de que a nuestras espaldas teníamos el mar), "aspira yodo que es muy bueno para el tiroides", decía mi primo Antonio y arreando.
Tras una paradita que otra y para quitarnos esa gota de sudor que estorba, subimos monte arriba para encontrarnos con ese camino carretero que, como comenté anteriormente, ascendía desde el pueblo de Acequias, y que evitamos para no dar ese gran rodeo. Nos encontramos ahora sobre el barranco del río Torrente y tendremos que cruzarlo pasando de una vertiente a otra.
Una vez que llegamos al primer cruce de caminos, dejamos atrás el de la izquierda, y que va en ascenso; nosotros tomamos el de la derecha y que es cuesta abajo. Las vistas desde aquí son espectaculares, mirando hacia el sur y de izquierda a derecha: la Contraviesa, la Sierra de Lújar, el mar Mediterráneo, la Sierra de los Güájares, la Sierra de la Almijara, la de Tejeda y la de las Albuñuelas; a nuestras espaldas, la Sierra del Manar y las estribaciones de las altas cumbres de Sierra Nevada y como regalo de este claro despejado, abajo unos enormes “molinos de viento” para la producción de electricidad y esa chispa que te da la vista cuando miras hacia abajo y todo lo dominas.
Continuando por el ancho carril, y tras pasar una extensa plantación de almendros y vides, tenemos delante de nuestros ojos otra enorme hendedura en el terreno: se trata del barranco del Tablate y, cómo no, también tendríamos que salvarlo.
Proseguimos por la pista forestal y vemos que por aquí están haciendo una gran limpieza sobre esta zona de pinar y que atravesamos ahora. El romero (Rosmarinus officinalis) en flor, la lecheterna (Euphorbia characias) con la que le quitaríamos las verrugas hasta la bruja más moderna, la retama, el tomillo aceitunero nos saludan a nuestro paso. Atrás dejamos restos del desafortunado incendio que asoló este lugar y que fue ocasionado por dos excursionistas extranjeros a los que al creerse perdidos no tuvieron otra ocurrencia que prender fuego para que les localizasen.
El incendio, que se declaró el día 22 de septiembre de 2005, y que empezó en el paraje de Tello, arrasó más de 2.200 hectáreas de una zona de alto valor ecológico, la mayoría de ellas, un 50 por ciento se ubica dentro del Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada.
Sobre las 13:05 h. llegamos a Pedro Calvo, un bonito paraje en donde existe un albergue restaurado hace unos tres años y que pertenece al término municipal de Lecrín (al que se puede reservar gratuitamente llamando a su Ayuntamiento, aunque según nos aseguraron sus ocupantes, está "pillado" todos los fines de semana hasta el mes de junio de 2007 (para aquel que pueda, quedan muchos días laborables...) Aquí existe, además, un generoso nacimiento de agua muy fresca, una gran alberca cercada a modo de pantaneta o embalse y custodiada para más frescor por la sombra de unos grandes pinsapos. Un lugar para quedarse, pero no demasiado, porque nosotros teníamos que continuar con “nuestro viaje” hacia las castañas.
Al pronto y tras pasar este paraje de Pedro Calvo, el carril se bifurca en dos: el de la derecha y en descendo, llevaría directamente hasta Lanjarón continuando por la GR-7 (aunque decir tiene que no hay ni la más mínima señalización al respecto); el de la izquierda y en ascenso está señalizo como “A Tello” y es el que nosotros tomamos. Una vez que estamos sobre la cota suficiente y en donde podemos divisar una amplia zona salpicada de cortijos, la mayoría derruidos, y en medio de una espesa arboleda, nos dejamos llevar, guiándonos hasta ellos por nuestro propio instinto (las veredas aquí como que están camufladas con el paisaje), para introducirnos en el Castañar de Lanjarón.
Aquí, sobre la Bordaila, hacemos ese alto obligado en el paisaje para recrearnos con estos magníficos ejemplares de castaños (Castanea sativa), aprovechando también para el avituallamiento en uno de estos cortijos medio abandonados.
Proseguimos con nuestra marcha, alrededor de las 15:30 h., salvando chorreras y acequias, y bajando siempre con dirección Sur para todo aquel que se despiste, hasta que al final desembocamos en un amplio cortijo con una explotación ganadera, cabras y cabritos separados a un lado y al otro del camino (nos imaginamos el destino de estos últimos) y que ahora nos desciende a otro nuevo de tierra, al principio de color muy rojizo, y que te va "llevando y trayendo", una vez tras otra, hasta la mismísima margen derecha del valle sobre el río Lanjarón. Así que de un extremo a otro, y con ese fuerte descenso y recorrido, llegamos donde comienza lo malo, el hormigón armado y más árido. Pero nosotros torcemos a la derecha y tomamos nuevamente otro carril de tierra que desemboca en una bonita vereda empedrada, muy empinada por cierto, y por donde con la grata compaña de una alocada acequia, terminamos sobre las 17:15 h. en el núcleo urbano de Lanjarón. "Agua y Lanjarón", dos palabras inevitablemente asociadas en el pensamiento y en el sentimiento de los granadinos de este enclave de nuestra provincia, situado entre las comarcas de la Alpujarra y el Valle de Lecrín, aunque hay escritos que sólo lo asocian a un lado o al otro de la balanza, pero que como "Pórtico de la Alpujarra" se lleva la palma de la mano con ese sobresaliente como denominación más apropiada para designar el carácter fronterizo de este municipio y cuya etimología lo dice todo; refiriéndonos a su vocablo en árabe "Al-Lancharon", aumentativo de "Al-Lanchar", sería "campo de fuentes saludables".
Fin de este imponente itinerario que, a pesar de su señalada duración, nos ha sabido a poco; habiéndose caracterizado por una fuerte subida y bajada, escasez de señalización (faltan muchísimos hitos y letreros para que el caminante no se pierda) y el contratiempo del último episodio: el medio de transporte de regreso. Nuestra intención era tomar las Alsinas Graells para llegar hasta el cruce de Acequias y regresar a Granada en el vehículo que allí dejamos aparcado, pero el incidente: que pasó una…que pasaron tres, y las tres "al completo" nos dijeron sus conductores. Así que allí que nos dejaron clavados de pie en la tierra del agua, Lanjarón para ser más exactos en su importancia. Bueno, menos mal que en el último de la noche, el de las ocho de la tarde, nos pudimos venir, que si no…que allí mismo que nos empadronamos, y acordándonos de esa famosa frase “no utilices el coche, coge el autobús como medio de transporte” Pues a ver cómo se come ésto… (aclarar tengo, y lo más gracioso, y que sirva como protesta desde esta humilde bitácora, que llamamos antes de salir de Granada a la central de Alsinas Graells y nos aseguraron que no tendríamos ningún problema, que habían puesto vehículos de refuerzo, que no teníamos que sacar ni billete por adelantado)
Bueno, son cosas que pasan… y que con castañas andaba el coche y nosotros encantados con esta marcha, entre acequias y agua, castaños y horizonte y ese casi medio partido Madrid-Celta que nos tragamos en un bar de la calle más alarga del pueblo.
Y termino como siempre dejando algunas instantáneas de estos momentos vividos como recuerdo y con estos versos del célebre poema de Federico García Lorca, referido al cerro de San Miguel de Granada, y que hallé inscrustados en un pilar al final de la calle principal de esta noble ciudad del agua:
“Se ven desde las barandas, por el monte, monte, monte; mulos y sombras de mulos, cargados de girasoles...Un cielo de mulos blancos, cierra sus ojos de azogue, dando a la quieta penumbra, un final de corazones.Y el agua se pone fría, para que nadie la toque. Agua loca y descubierta, por el monte, monte, monte.”
*
-Accesos: Granada -Carretera Granada-Motril, tomando la Salida: Nigüelas-Acequias" - Hasta el cruce de Acequias en vehículo. - Ruta a pie: de Acequias a Lanjarón (por el Castañar de Lanjarón) - Trayecto: lineal -Número de participantes:4 -Dificultad: Media-Baja-Duración: unas 7 h. aprox. -Agua: durante casi en todo el recorrido.

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